다운로드 Exposure Calculator

다른 한편에서는 원활한 경험을하려면 파일을 장치에 다운로드 한 후 파일을 사용하는 방법을 알아야합니다. APK 파일은 Android 앱의 원시 파일이며 Android 패키지 키트를 의미합니다. 모바일 앱 배포 및 설치를 위해 Android 운영 체제에서 사용하는 패키지 파일 형식입니다.
네 가지 간단한 단계에서 사용 방법을 알려 드리겠습니다. Exposure Calculator 귀하의 전화 번호.

1 단계 : 다운로드 Exposure Calculator 귀하의 기기에서

아래의 다운로드 미러를 사용하여 지금 당장이 작업을 수행 할 수 있습니다. 그것의 99 % 보장 . 컴퓨터에서 파일을 다운로드하는 경우, 그것을 안드로이드 장치로 옮기십시오.  

2 단계 : 기기에 타사 앱 허용

설치하려면 Exposure Calculator 타사 응용 프로그램이 현재 설치 소스로 활성화되어 있는지 확인해야합니다. 메뉴 > 설정 > 보안> 으로 이동하여 알 수없는 소스 를 선택하여 휴대 전화가 Google Play 스토어 이외의 소스에서 앱을 설치하도록 허용하십시오.

3 단계 : 파일 관리자로 이동

이제 위치를 찾으십시오 Exposure Calculator 방금 다운로드 한 파일입니다.
일단 당신이 Exposure Calculator 파일을 클릭하면 일반 설치 프로세스가 시작됩니다. 메시지가 나타나면 "예" 를 누르십시오. 그러나 화면의 모든 메시지를 읽으십시오.

4 단계 : 즐기십시오

Exposure Calculator 이 (가) 귀하의 기기에 설치되었습니다. 즐겨!

개발자 설명

Takes the guesswork out of what shutter speed to use. Ever struggled with an exposure meter or the camera's auto exposure system and found that it just cannot seem to determine the correct shutter speed? I have and that is why this App was written. There are tables and formulae to help you to work out the shutter speed for yourself, but that's not easy. This App takes some simple information about the lighting conditions, the f-stop of the camera and the ISO rating being used and calculates what the correct shutter speed should be. It is that simple. If you have used the pre-calculated tables before you might be suprised by the answers this App gives you but, believe me, I have implemented the formulae and the pre-calculated tables are approximations (sometimes rather wild ones). The tables do not include all f-stops, the tables do not take account the different ISO values cameras can be set to. This App does. This App takes this information and presents it in an easy to use form. Just type in the f/stop value using the keypad, type in the ISO rating using the keypad and then select the applicable lighting conditions from the four lighting condition types: Daylight, Twilight, Night and Indoors. Each has a range of Exposure Values to select from. The App then calculates what the effective EV value is (given the ISO rating) and so can calculate what the actual shutter speed should be. It also shows the applicable row from the standard tables for the EV. Depending on the ISO rating being used the Exposure value selected from the list can be increased or decreased e.g. if the light is low and the EV is -3 but you are using ISO 800 then the effective Exposure value is zero (ISO 800 counts as +3 to EV) the shutter speed needs to match this value not that selected from the standard lighting condition values. The tables only show some of f/stop values. For example the tables show f/2.0 and f/2.8 but you might have the camera set to f/2.4. Well it is possible to calculate the exact value so this is what the App does. Coupled with ISO values that do not generate exact EV numbers this value can show you the true value you should be attempting to use. An ISO of 250 adds +1.32 to the EV value. It is a log2 scale. Now you may not be able to set you camera to the exact value given but it does give you a much better idea of the real shutter speed required rather than trying to guess from the tables (which are calculated on a logarithmic scale and are approximations). By being able to set the ISO to 250 or 500, etc this App is can calculate the real EV value. If you set the ISO to 1000 then any EV value selected needs to have approximately 3.3 added to it to give the correct EV value. So if the selected EV is 6 then the effective EV with this ISO is actually 9.3. But there is no row for 9.3 in the standard tables and it does make a difference. If the camera is set to f/3.5 then the closest row in the table is for EV9 and f/2.8 (1/60th of a second) or f/4.0 (1/30th of a second). So do you err towards 1/30th or 1/60th. Well this App actually calculates the exact value and this shows as 1/52nd of a second. Generally a camera cannot be set to this but it can be set to 1/50th so I would try that and then maybe 1/60th and maybe 1/40th. The calculation comes out as 1/50th because the EV is not 9 it is 9.3 and therefore with the ISO at 1000 everything must be treated as brighter and so less exposure is needed. Being able to see the exact value to use is even more use when long exposures are needed. The standard tables get very vague for low light conditions i.e. EV -6 for f/22 is 64 minutes and for f/32 it is 128 minutes (over an hour more). So if you are using f/28 how many minutes at ISO 1250? Well the answer is 66.9 minutes which is much shorter than you might have guessed.